Gabrea Journal
The ongoing adventures of three Libertines in love!

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Saturday, September 26, 2009

the Sayulita Surf Journal - Day 3

(above) my very own Gidget, Andrea Villarrubia on her first day out

Today was my 3rd day out on the waves, and things are going swimmingly. While my first day was really magical, with all conditions and actions falling together cosmically correct, day 2 was ripe with lessons, as it should be. There were tons of people out there, and I really stressed over my role in the water, and not getting in peoples way. Probably the right thing, but surely distracting and not condusive to catching waves. The first wave I did catch I lamely rode right to the front of the rocks, got off and was suddenly caught "inside" between a literal Rock and a hard wavey place. I was scared, I got out, I got slammed some more. Boards are hard to carry, and even harder in waist deep water. Later a did a head over heels trying to catch a wave too far on the front of my board. Lots of lessons that day. Now back to my 3rd day out - it was stellar. I caught a bunch of waves, no one was out but Nick and I, and I improved on various fronts. Not only did I mind my location and not get slammed into the rocks, but I did some great pop-ups and really improved in my form. I caught some great fronts of waves, and rode them all the way out. But damn, it sure is fucking tiring getting back out in the water after riding in. Lord. Exhausting! I guess nothing that fun is free! All together, things are going well.

Andrea went out for her first surf last week as well, and enjoyed what was a very trying surf, with lots of big waves, a similarly dangerous rock adventure, and tough times getting back out. This is a new thing for us to get used to and have alot more practice before it becomes easier, but we are digging it. More to come!

The La Lancha Lancers Co-ed team (L to R) Mariano, Justin, Nick and Gidget Stoops

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