Gabrea Journal
The ongoing adventures of three Libertines in love!

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Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Sayulita Surf Journal - Worst Day Ever

Hurricane Rick is upon us, our town talking about the big swell coming all week. I went out surfing this morning with Nick and Justin, first to Enclote, with no surf there, then to "La Lancha" - boy, was there surf there. To go back a bit, I went to sleep and woke feeling "off". Not sure what's wrong with me, but something is off kilter - like my soul is sick. It really showed in my surfing, and now continues in my mood. We arrived at La Lancha, and the waves were so huge, my hand trembled as I held my board, awaiting a break in the waves just to paddle out. My partners already well on their way to the line up, I saw a channel and took it. I was battered pretty bad, but I made it. That was about as good as it got. 1.5 hours of getting knocked around, living with fear, and fighting for a good spot I never found. ug. After exiting the water without catching a single wave, we headed back to Enclote and surfed another hour. I cought a few waves, but my spirit was drowned and my morale low. They can't all be good days, but I live to surf another day.

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